July 9, 2016

Regular Maintenance: Important, Tedious, Necessary


Now that the cabinet is finished, and I've logged a lot of hours of shop time, it's time to do some routine cleaning and maintenance before starting my next project.  I don't particularly enjoy this process, but it's necessary to keep the machine running smoothly, and to get the absolute best performance and results.

I started of with a good cleaning, first brushing all the dust off, then wiping tables, posts, and all tubes with mineral spirits.  Then a scrubbing with Johnson's Paste Wax (a good discussion on that here) and a couple of different coarsnesses of Scotchbrite.  I let the wax "soak in" a bit, then buffed it out with a soft rag.
A quick rundown of the process.  If only it were this fast in real life!
After the cleaning was all finished, I did a full alignment check.  There are several different phases to this process, but it all leads to better projects through better accuracy and precision.


90-degree Table Stop Alignment

Putting the machine in drill press mode, you can check the accuracy of the positive stops for the 90 degree left table tilt.
Reposition main table carriage and headstock
Lift-off!!

Make sure to secure the way tubes when in the upright position

Tilt table until it hits the stops, then mostly lock table

Extend quill until bit is just below the table

Blade of square should touch full length of bit

Adjust stops to just touch the underside of the table

0-degree Positive Stop Alignment

Using a square and saw blade in table saw mode, you can check the 0-degree positive stop

Replace drill chuck with saw blade

Tilt table to 0-degrees and lower until just above headstock

Check for square (I lucked out!)

Make any necessary adjustment to the small scale

45-degree Positive Stop Alignment

Continuing to use the saw blade, 45-degree positive stops can be checked and adjusted with the combination square

Raise table above blade, tilt to 45-degrees right stops are engaged

Extend quill until blade is centered in slot. Lower table over blade

Check for any gaps.  If necessary adjust stops.

Stops are the brass-colored machine bolts in the upper right

Alignment of Miter Slots

Using the miter gauge and the long 5/32" Allen wrench, you can check the miter slots for parallel to the blade.  I was fortunate, as the track ran very parallel, so no adjustment of the trunnions was necessary.

Long Allen wrench secured in miter gauge.  It is just touching the blade.

Slide from front to back, checking for gaps or drag

This looks pretty good, but a second type of check adds to reliability

Wrench just touching outside edge of saw tooth

Rotate blade while sliding gauge backwards, check against the same tooth

Alignment of Miter Gauge Face Positive Stops

Using a speed square and saw blade, alignment of the positive stops at 0 and 45-degrees (left and right) can be checked and adjusted.

0-degree stop is off.  Loosen lock knob, disengage stop plunger.  Adjust to square and lock

Adjust stop until it just touch plunger and recheck

Similar process for 45-degrees left...

...and 45-degrees right

Alignment of Fence

Again using the long Allen wrench secured in the miter gauge, the alignment of the fence can be checked and adjusted.  Be careful when making adjustments to not gouge the fence.  It is incredibly easy to scratch, gouge or otherwise mar the fence.  I ended up with a couple of light scratches, but nothing too bad.


Fence just touching the wrench and secured

Slide gauge from front to back.  Check for gaps or drag.

If adjustment is needed, loosen these 4 screws, unlock rear (top latch) of fence, adjust, tighten, lock and recheck

Alignment of Extension Table

A good straight-edge and 9/16" wrench are used to check and adjust alignment of the extension table.  Due to some oddities of the ShopSmith, it's pretty much impossible to switch the extension table from the left side to the right side and maintain perfect alignment, so when performing this alignment, it's best to pick the side in which you use the extension table the most.  Three sides will be aligned to the main table: the infeed end, the outfeed end, and the front rails.

Loosen the lower nuts on the extension table.  Allow approximately 1/4" of room for adjustment

Nuts loosened, approximately 1/4" of bolt is visible below the flange

A straight-edge pressed firmly against the main table front rail allows forward alignment

Adjust upper nuts until infeed side of table is coplanar with main table

Do the same with the back

After verifying that all 3 areas are coplanar, and all four top nuts are touch flange, bottom nuts can be tightened

Alignment of Splitter

The splitter in the upper saw guard needs to be aligned with the blade in order to function correctly.  The 5/32" Allen wrench is used to mount the lower saw guard and blade, as well as make an necessary adjustments.

Secure blade and lower guard to spindle and quill

Insert and secure splitter into rear bracket


Splitter is aligned, no adjustment needed

Alignment of Lathe Tail Stock

The final alignment step uses the drill chuck, the lathe tail stock, and the cup center.  Adjustments are made to either the stop collars on the tail stock, or the eccentric bushing in which the center sits.

Install and secure the tail stock on the right-hand side

Move carriage and headstock all the way to the right, install drill chuck

Cup center installed in tail stock and chuck jaws closed

Extend quill until almost touch center and lock in position

Lateral adjustments made to eccentric bushing

Set screw in tail stock secures bushing
And that does it!  Alignment and cleaning of the main machine are complete!  I still need to clean, align and adjust the band saw and planer, but for right now they are not critical, and it was hot today!  I'm all set to move forward with a couple of projects/lessons before I need to do this all again!

Big thanks to my wife who took all these pictures as I was working.  It was incredibly warm in the shop, and she was a trooper!

July 2, 2016

Storage: A Cabinet Under The ShopSmith, Part 3

Cabinet is FINISHED!
Another hot, hot day in shop today!  I wasn't planning to do a third installment of this project, but with the trials of getting this thing mounted up, I thought it deserved some discussion.

As you can see, all the doors are mounted (and they close all the way!), that wasn't particularly difficult, though I did need to do some measuring and marking to establish some symmetry between the double doors on the large side of the cabinet.  I also trimmed a bit off the small door and flipped the hinge around in order for it to close all the way.


Large side has doors front and back.
Once that was all done, I began the task of trying to get this beast mounted.  I once again ran into the issue of written measurements and real life not necessarily being the same, and were it not for my wife's help, I would have had a lot more difficulty.  And very likely a broken machine.

The hard part of mounting this cabinet is getting the bench tubes in between the ears on the end panels.  Turns out that the tubes on my machine are about 1/4" wider than what was listed as the dimensions for the cut out.  I don't know exactly how much wider, but we had to lift and shift the ShopSmith several times making test fits, then sanding material away, lather rinse repeat.  

Last bit of rasping!
Eventually we got the fit right, and could work on finishing up the mounting.  I first retracted the casters, so the ShopSmith was sitting at its lowest level, then I slid a couple of pieces of 1x under the cabinet ends to make sure that it will have good clearance then casters are deployed.


Elevation!

Positioning the cross ties
A backer board prevents blow-out
Carriage bolts and wing nuts finish the job
I was so excited when this was finished, that I had to start loading as much stuff in the cabinet as I could.  This is all preliminary, as there will be some better/additional customization, but I was able to store all my accessories (excluding the bandsaw) in or on the cabinet.


Box of assorted items to be stowed

The planer tucks nicely in the back.  Easy to access through rear doors.

First items in the small cabinet!

Lots of stuff, but lots of space!

Better organization on this side

Just about finished!

Found out what these holes are for! (Chuck key and Allen wrench!)
Now that this project is finished (finally!), it was time for a good clean up of the shop.  I cleaned up all my tools, extra hardware, took out a bunch of trash, and vacuumed everything.


Nice and clean!  Ready for the next job!
Final thoughts on this project:
  • Buy extra material to accommodate errors.
  • Relative dimensioning is your friend.  Real life always trumps theory.
  • It's okay for something to be "good enough", but don't leave it that way because you're tired of dealing with it.  I was inspired to take another shot at the small door, and because I did, it is now significantly better than "good enough"
  • Plywood often gets bowed.  Make temporary braces that hold case sides at the proper distance before cutting any partitions to final length.  As well as being a really beautiful project, there's a really good demonstration/explanation of this over here.
  • Getting ready to make a cut?  Check that measurement again!
  • When you're really excited/motivated to work on a project, not even a really hot shop can stop you!
That brings the Storage Cabinet project to a close.  Let me know what you think in the comments!  I'm still learning about EVERYTHING, including how little I actually know, and would appreciate any comments, criticisms, tips, etc.  Thanks for reading!

Check out part 1 and part 2 here!